Interview: SAGITTAIRE A Debuts in Paris with Fashion Film "Samphrenia"

March 09, 2018 12:00 PM

Sagittaire A is a place deep within the Milky Way that emits radio waves, possibly the location of a black hole, and its perplexing, almost esoteric nature makes it a befitting name for the logo-less brand that debuted Paris Fashion Week this year with a short fashion film– the designers to remain unnamed. The brand’s team is “based in China, rooted in France,” and hail from non-fashion backgrounds, according to Sagittaire A’s Paris spokesperson Rafael Jimenez. The brand’s website is soon to launch, and on Instagram, their logo appears to simply be in Times New Roman all-caps, as if undecided. Instead of the garments bearing any brand emblem, familiar logos like that of Marlboro and Mastercard were adapted for the clothes. These decisions are rooted in the attitude that consumers won’t remember a brand’s logo at such an early stage in its lifecycle. “So why have a logo?” remarked Jimenez. The brand proffers unfamiliar standards such as this after a long-term observance and meditation on the fashion industry from the outside. 

“Samphrenia,” the brand’s fashion short was released in lieu of a traditional fashion show, and was based off of the Oscar-winning Milos Forman film One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, starring Jack Nicholson. The film plays almost like a cinematic recording of a fashion show with the seats placed in the set, a mental institute, left completely vacant. Models were fitted with thick, creased leather boots with exposed zippers climbing the heel. They walked through the film with an unconcerned demeanor, slightly disheveled but at ease, sometimes smoking a cigarette or eating an apple. The collection’s boxy blazers and coats feature contrast stitching, asymmetric and distressed details, and deconstructed elements– vestigial third-sleeves fall down the coat backs of some looks– most reminiscent of Margiela, as are the white-gowned “patients” displayed going about their day in the institute. 

Only second to the product, the artistry behind each step in the design and production process is the essence of Sagittaire A. They hope to establish the brand without allowing marketing efforts or branding to distract from the fashion nor the artistry behind it. TWELV spoke with Jimenez to discuss the mystique; the independent, artisanal nature; and the curious story behind Sagittaire A’s carefully considered inception.

Watch "Samphrenia" and read the excerpts below:

The brand is described as being the result of a “long-term reflection on the fashion industry.” Can you tell me more?

The founders have been observing with a lot of curiosity how the fashion industry works, and how the system works– notions about quality, seasons, distribution, gender, status. They know from an insider, from the fashion circles of production, of high-end luxury labels. The founders are young people between ages 30-33 and self-trained in fashion. One studied business, one studied law, but they had been watching how collections were shown, and discounted immediately, and how the value of the artwork and the intellectual property were thought about.

They are obviously very influenced Margiela and by the Japanese movement, Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons. They are in the school of philosophy of the people who like to put the spotlight on the product, on the creative side, and on the artistic side, as opposed to the more marketing-driven side.

The team seems to have a sense of secrecy.

For the moment, they would like to be considered as a collective that is based in China, rooted in France, who exchange information with different like-minded people in the world. They don’t like to put the focus on who is behind it, just that the artistry that is behind all the processes of creation is real, and is made for the brand, by the brand. 

 Is there a story behind the name?

Some of the members believe in a sort of mysticism and were really attracted by the idea of Sagittaire A, which is a place in the cosmos where certain radio waves are born, and it is believed that there are theories with the origin of the universe. 

 What was the starting point for the first collection?

The team does have a head of design. He’s a self-trained person. He’s a real library rat. He reads all the books. He only works at night. He hardly sees anyone. He has been investigating what would be the right collection for this. And to put it in a brief way– in the process of deciding what was right for this collection, he became crazy– and so he decided he would call the collection “Sample Schizophrenia.” Samphrenia is an abbreviation of both.

 And how did the film come about?

Well, when he was thinking about how to show the collection, he was watching a movie from the 70’s, called One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, which talks about a mental institution. The founder thought that would be the best way to illustrate his current state of mind. 

In China, he actually made a whole movie set. He directed the movie, and is self-trained in this as well— this was his first time. He made the models fly to China and woke them up at 2 in the morning to make them look tired. Everything is very thought through. All the drawings in the collection, he paints himself. He does the artwork, then takes pictures of it and does prints. Everything he makes, he wants to reflect a real state of artistry from A to Z.

 How has the response been since showing in Paris this fashion week?

We have great feedback from many opinion formers, stores, PR. The brand has an independent spirit. They really know what they’re doing in the long-term. It’s a life project, and they really want to do things right. I think time will tell what will happen, but the brand has time.

What has been the biggest challenge?

They’d been thinking about it for so long, and everything came together very last minute. They were looking for a signal to get it all rolling, and the biggest challenge was to move everything so fast, so we could reach the deadline. 

So, what was that signal?

It was the realization that we had reached the point where we had enough material and enough things to say, the right media to say it and the right structure. 

 

INTERVIEW BY HOLLIS DE LANEY

 

PHOTO/VIDEO CREDIT: SAGITTAIRE A

 

related posts

TWELV S/S 2022 COVER "INTERVIEW WITH UKRAINE MODELS"

TWELV Magazine S/S 22 Cover "Interview with Ukraine Models" 
 
August 11, 2022 2:06 AM  |  Fashion

Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2022 Collection alongside 12 artists

To illustrate creativity emerging from countless perspectives, Alexander McQueen invited a group  of 12 artists to get inspired and create by their “Process” Pre-Fall 2022 Collection. ...

June 16, 2022 11:18 PM  |  Fashion

AGOLDE's Charitable T-Shirt Launch in Support of Ukraine

Sustainable fashion brand AGOLDE and Citizens of Humanity Group join and stand by Giles  Duley, founder, and CEO of the Legacy of War Foundation, in their mission to help bring “the ...

June 01, 2022 10:44 AM  |  Fashion

HYKE FASHION STORY "MANTRA OF A NEW YORKER"

FASHION STORY "MANTRA OF A NEW YORKER" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

May 29, 2022 11:15 PM  |  Fashion

Altuzarra Fashion Story "TAKE ME BACK TO PARIS"

ALTUZARRA Fashion Story "TAKE ME BACK TO PARIS " is now available! 
 
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
May 28, 2022 10:45 AM  |  Fashion

GUCCI LOVE PARADE CAMPAIGN

Decadence is all over the menu in Gucci's latest delicious and tantalizing visionary treat. Love Parade demands the attention of your imagination.

March 01, 2022 3:50 PM  |  Fashion

Alexander McQueen Lucia: The Jewelled Satchel

Noir, mysterious, and dare one say almost haunting is the new short film shot by Sophie Muller.

March 01, 2022 10:51 AM  |  Fashion

CELINE SUMMER 22 BAIE DES ANGES CAMPAIGN

Casual but designed with bold thought, the Celine Baie des Anges collection makes its way to the woman's clothing zeitgeist this Spring/Summer 2022 season.

February 28, 2022 9:33 PM  |  Fashion
CHAMA

TWELV MAGAZINE NYFW 2022 PARTY@PUBLIC HOTEL

TWELV Magazine hosted a NYFW 2022 party at pubilc hotel. The night started out with the beautifully dressed guests.

February 17, 2022 1:50 AM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "FREE & FREAKY" BY CHAMA

FASHION STORY "FREE & FREAKY" by CHAMA is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

February 09, 2022 1:01 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV F/W 2021 "Alexander McQueen" COVER FASHION STORY

TWELV Magazine F/W 21 Alexander McQueen Cover Fashion Story "McQUEEN" 
 
December 24, 2021 1:22 PM  |  Fashion
Photography by CHAMA

TWELV MAGAZINE HALLOWEEN PARTY 2021 @PUBLIC HOTEL

TWELV Magazine's annual Halloween party was on the cutting edge of horror haute couture with costumed guests attending as their alter egos for the night. It was a true Nightmare on Chrystie Street...

November 01, 2021 2:16 AM  |  Fashion

Alexander McQueen Spring/ Summer 2022 collection

The Ever-Changing Alexander McQueen

October 14, 2021 1:47 AM  |  Fashion

Saint Laurent Summer 2022 collection

The Independent Spirit of Yves Saint Laurent Summer 2022

October 01, 2021 12:02 PM  |  Fashion

Balenciaga Spring Summer 2022 collection

Balenciaga Hits the Red Carpet for the Summer 22 Collection

October 01, 2021 10:19 AM  |  Fashion

Dior spring summer 2022 collection

This collection sees a reinvention of classic to the modern world reeling in this era of post  pandemic life.

October 01, 2021 10:12 AM  |  Fashion

THE GUCCI 100 CAMPAIGN

The Gucci 100 Collection hits its Centennial Dance Floor

September 30, 2021 9:33 AM  |  Fashion

Emporio Armani 40th Anniversary

THE WAY WE ARE, Emporio Armani 40th Anniversary

September 29, 2021 10:11 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE NYFW PARTY@PUBLIC HOTEL

The NYFW 2021 party is finally here! Who was waiting for our annual NYFW party?

September 18, 2021 4:07 AM  |  Fashion

DIOR "DESIGNER OF DREAMS" EXHIBITION AT THE BROOKLYN MUSEUM

Designer of dreams exhibition 
September 10, 2021 5:22 PM  |  Fashion

CELINE HOMME "COSMIC CRUISER" SUMMER 2022

CELINE HOMME ‘COSMIC CRUISER’ SUMMER 2022 COLLECTION

DIRECTED BY HEDI SLIMANE

WATCH THE SHOW HERE: COSMIC CRUISER

August 01, 2021 8:04 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "MANON BABY MONON" by CHAMA

FASHION STORY "MANON BABY MANON" by CHAMA is now available! 

 

PHOTOGRAPHY: CHAMA

June 07, 2021 3:10 AM  |  Fashion

ELENA MATEI INTERVIEW/ FASHION STORY

Elena Matei Interview / Fashion Story is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

June 07, 2021 2:38 AM  |  Fashion

Converse x PLAY Comme des Garçons Chuck 70 Launches

Comme des Garçons announces the launch of the Converse x PLAY Comme des Garçons Chuck 70 in two new colorways: Blue Quartz and Steel Gray.

June 07, 2021 2:11 AM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "LIFE IS EASY WITH TREES AROUND"

FASHION STORY "LIFE IS EASY WITH TREES AROUND" is now available! 
 
June 06, 2021 1:51 AM  |  Fashion

Alexander McQueen Pre-AUTUMN/ WINTER 2021 Collection

Here we welcome Alexander McQueens AW 2021: a serene focus on silhouettes.

May 14, 2021 3:32 AM  |  Fashion

SAINT LAURENT WINTER 2021 COLLECTION

Saint Laurent Winter 2021, Where the Silver Wind Blows, may have been inspired by Ray Bradbury's allegoric tale, The Golden Kite, The Silver Wind. The theme of The Golden Kite, The...
May 06, 2021 6:15 PM  |  Fashion

KEMIO INTERVIEW/ FASHION STORY

KEMIO Interview / Fashion Story is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

May 06, 2021 4:08 AM  |  Fashion

Alexander McQueen Short Story

Alexander McQueen Women’s family of bags welcomed a new member, the collection now has a Small Story, Short Story, and Tall Story. This year's SS21 welcomed the Short Story bag, inspired by its...
March 01, 2021 3:50 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "AGA" BY CHAMA

FASHION STORY "AGA" by CHAMA is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

January 22, 2021 11:47 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "GIRL NEXT DOOR" BY CHAMA

FASHION STORY "GIRL NEXT DOOR" by CHAMA is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

January 08, 2021 1:47 AM  |  Fashion

DIOR FALL 2021 COLLECTION

Dior's Fall 2021 Collection, designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri, summoned joie de vivre, or the exuberant delight of life. 
 
December 28, 2020 11:13 PM  |  Fashion

SAINT LAURENT SUMMER 2021 COLLECTION

Saint Laurent Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello wanted to “focus on the essence of things”, and he delivered. The Summer 2021 Saint Laurent Collection takes place in the desert.

December 28, 2020 11:11 PM  |  Fashion

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Pre-Spring 2021 Collection

Alexander McQueen Pre-Spring 2021 collection was embraced by enthusiasts as certain parts of the world brace themselves for a bitter winter. McQueen's Pre-Spring 2021 launched in the beginning...
December 07, 2020 10:38 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV HOLIDAY GIFT IDEA 2020 #2: FASHION EDITOR SHO "Margot Tenenbaum"

TWELV Editors' Holiday Gift Pick is now available!  

December 07, 2020 12:45 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV HOLIDAY GIFT IDEA 2020 #1: Editor ERINA "Alice In Wonderland"

TWELV Editors' Holiday Gift Pick is now available!  

 

December 07, 2020 12:45 PM  |  Fashion

Pages

SITE BY: monocomplex©Marbles & Marbles International Inc. Drupal Development by: DivDiv, NYC
▲ back to top ▲