Interview: SAGITTAIRE A Debuts in Paris with Fashion Film "Samphrenia"

March 09, 2018 12:00 PM

Sagittaire A is a place deep within the Milky Way that emits radio waves, possibly the location of a black hole, and its perplexing, almost esoteric nature makes it a befitting name for the logo-less brand that debuted Paris Fashion Week this year with a short fashion film– the designers to remain unnamed. The brand’s team is “based in China, rooted in France,” and hail from non-fashion backgrounds, according to Sagittaire A’s Paris spokesperson Rafael Jimenez. The brand’s website is soon to launch, and on Instagram, their logo appears to simply be in Times New Roman all-caps, as if undecided. Instead of the garments bearing any brand emblem, familiar logos like that of Marlboro and Mastercard were adapted for the clothes. These decisions are rooted in the attitude that consumers won’t remember a brand’s logo at such an early stage in its lifecycle. “So why have a logo?” remarked Jimenez. The brand proffers unfamiliar standards such as this after a long-term observance and meditation on the fashion industry from the outside. 

“Samphrenia,” the brand’s fashion short was released in lieu of a traditional fashion show, and was based off of the Oscar-winning Milos Forman film One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, starring Jack Nicholson. The film plays almost like a cinematic recording of a fashion show with the seats placed in the set, a mental institute, left completely vacant. Models were fitted with thick, creased leather boots with exposed zippers climbing the heel. They walked through the film with an unconcerned demeanor, slightly disheveled but at ease, sometimes smoking a cigarette or eating an apple. The collection’s boxy blazers and coats feature contrast stitching, asymmetric and distressed details, and deconstructed elements– vestigial third-sleeves fall down the coat backs of some looks– most reminiscent of Margiela, as are the white-gowned “patients” displayed going about their day in the institute. 

Only second to the product, the artistry behind each step in the design and production process is the essence of Sagittaire A. They hope to establish the brand without allowing marketing efforts or branding to distract from the fashion nor the artistry behind it. TWELV spoke with Jimenez to discuss the mystique; the independent, artisanal nature; and the curious story behind Sagittaire A’s carefully considered inception.

Watch "Samphrenia" and read the excerpts below:

The brand is described as being the result of a “long-term reflection on the fashion industry.” Can you tell me more?

The founders have been observing with a lot of curiosity how the fashion industry works, and how the system works– notions about quality, seasons, distribution, gender, status. They know from an insider, from the fashion circles of production, of high-end luxury labels. The founders are young people between ages 30-33 and self-trained in fashion. One studied business, one studied law, but they had been watching how collections were shown, and discounted immediately, and how the value of the artwork and the intellectual property were thought about.

They are obviously very influenced Margiela and by the Japanese movement, Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons. They are in the school of philosophy of the people who like to put the spotlight on the product, on the creative side, and on the artistic side, as opposed to the more marketing-driven side.

The team seems to have a sense of secrecy.

For the moment, they would like to be considered as a collective that is based in China, rooted in France, who exchange information with different like-minded people in the world. They don’t like to put the focus on who is behind it, just that the artistry that is behind all the processes of creation is real, and is made for the brand, by the brand. 

 Is there a story behind the name?

Some of the members believe in a sort of mysticism and were really attracted by the idea of Sagittaire A, which is a place in the cosmos where certain radio waves are born, and it is believed that there are theories with the origin of the universe. 

 What was the starting point for the first collection?

The team does have a head of design. He’s a self-trained person. He’s a real library rat. He reads all the books. He only works at night. He hardly sees anyone. He has been investigating what would be the right collection for this. And to put it in a brief way– in the process of deciding what was right for this collection, he became crazy– and so he decided he would call the collection “Sample Schizophrenia.” Samphrenia is an abbreviation of both.

 And how did the film come about?

Well, when he was thinking about how to show the collection, he was watching a movie from the 70’s, called One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, which talks about a mental institution. The founder thought that would be the best way to illustrate his current state of mind. 

In China, he actually made a whole movie set. He directed the movie, and is self-trained in this as well— this was his first time. He made the models fly to China and woke them up at 2 in the morning to make them look tired. Everything is very thought through. All the drawings in the collection, he paints himself. He does the artwork, then takes pictures of it and does prints. Everything he makes, he wants to reflect a real state of artistry from A to Z.

 How has the response been since showing in Paris this fashion week?

We have great feedback from many opinion formers, stores, PR. The brand has an independent spirit. They really know what they’re doing in the long-term. It’s a life project, and they really want to do things right. I think time will tell what will happen, but the brand has time.

What has been the biggest challenge?

They’d been thinking about it for so long, and everything came together very last minute. They were looking for a signal to get it all rolling, and the biggest challenge was to move everything so fast, so we could reach the deadline. 

So, what was that signal?

It was the realization that we had reached the point where we had enough material and enough things to say, the right media to say it and the right structure. 

 

INTERVIEW BY HOLLIS DE LANEY

 

PHOTO/VIDEO CREDIT: SAGITTAIRE A

 

related posts

LANVIN PFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

The Lanvin Spring-Summer 2017 runway presentation marks Bouchra Jarrar’s first show and second collection for the French fashion house, as well as reminds us that her eponymous label has now had...

October 01, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

SAINT LAURENTS PFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

The Spring-Summer 2017 Saint Laurent collection was certainly a finger-tapping moment of anticipation for the French luxury house, as well as for the devoted Saint Laurent following that has been...

September 30, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

CHROME HEARTS FOR THE WEEKEND'S ‘STARBOY’ COVER

After the release of THE WEEKND’s Beauty Behind the Madness, fans are impatiently awaiting his next big move.

September 29, 2016 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

DSQUARED2 FASHION STORY "DSQUARED2"

FASHION STORY “DSQUARED2" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

September 28, 2016 5:49 PM  |  Fashion

Marc Jacobs NYFW S/S2017 ready-to-wear

At Marc Jacobs, the hemlines keep rising and so do the platforms.

September 27, 2016 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

YIGAL AZROUËL NYFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

Layers. Embroideries. Details.

September 26, 2016 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE NYFW PARTY @M1-5LOUNGE

Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook

 

September 22, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

HELMUT LANG FASHION STORY "MY SIDE OF THE STREET"

FASHION STORY “MY SIDE OF THE STREET” is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

September 18, 2016 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

Erin Fetherston NYFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

The Spring-Summer 2017 collection was a markedly important season for Erin Fetherston, serving not only as her 10th Anniversary New York Fashion Week, but also as her first...

September 16, 2016 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

KENZO WORLD THE NEW FRAGRANCE VIDEO by Spike Jonze

Formed by Creative Directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, KENZO Parfums unveils Kenzo World – the first feminine fragrance that “alludes to the force of the third eye and to spiritual protection...

September 15, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO NYFW S/S2017 Ready-to-Wear

An appraisal of the designs from Christian Siriano’s spring 2017 show would deem his work otherworldly.

September 12, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Louis Vuitton Unveils New Fragrance Collection "Les Parfums"

The roles we assume each day, whether it’s being a powerful attorney, a fashion editor, or homemaker are all accompanied by their own specifics.

September 01, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion
GUCCI

EYEGASM WORTHY GLASSES TO ACCESSORIZE YOUR B*TCH FACE

UNIQUE SILHOUETTE SUNGLASSES

 

 

August 24, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Lodovico Zordanazzo STORY

Lodovico Zordanazzo is an Italian man with a London soul. Italy is where he was born but London is where he gave birth to his own namesake line of footwear.

August 18, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

TIFFANY & CO. F/W2016 CAMPAIGN WITH Lupita Nyong'o and Elle Fanning

Tiffany & Co. unveiled its new fall 2016 campaign a few days ago, and for the first time in the brand history it features famous faces : Oscar®-winning actress...

August 18, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

GUCCI F/W2016 CAMPAIGN

Bubbles popping. Bells ringing. Buses honking. Alessandro Michele has done it again with Gucci’s autumn/winter 2016 campaign.

August 15, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

DJ BEC ADAMS FASHION STORY "NO LAPTOP NO PROBLEM"

DJ BEC ADAMS FASHION STORY "NO LAPTOP NO PROBLEM" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

August 12, 2016 2:51 PM  |  Fashion

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI F/W2016 CAMPAIGN

What do indie bands, crystal sandals, and Grace Hartzel have in common? Well, they are all featured in Giuseppe Zanotti’s latest dazzling ad campaign. 

August 08, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

CHANEL F/W2016 eyewear X Willow Smith

After being crowned a Chanel ambassador and electrifying the steps of the Met Gala in a car coat and clamdiggers this year, the ever creative and always fierce, Willow Smith,...

August 05, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Balmain F/W2016 Campaign: WOLVES by Kanye West

“From the moment I heard that song, I knew we had to use it for this campaign,” Olivier Rousteing proclaims.

August 03, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Citizens of Humanity Fall Collection

Skinny, slouchy, or flared, a nice pair of denim jeans is a must in any fashionista’s wardrobe.

August 03, 2016 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

CHANEL F/W2016 HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION

You can always count on Karl Lagerfeld to create some major intrigue! Just when you think you've seen it all, he shows it's only half time and that he remains a force to be reckoned with.

August 03, 2016 9:00 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE PARTY "GEISHA ON FIRE @ M1-5 lounge"

 Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook

 

July 25, 2016 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

VIKTOR & ROLF F/W2016 HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren took a trip to the past to create an extraordinary new collection – all from previous collections.

July 14, 2016 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE "TANABATA PARTY @LADUREE GARDEN & AFTER PARTY @HAPPY ENDING NYC"

Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook

 

July 12, 2016 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

Balmain S/S2017 Mens Collection

I love Olivier Rousteing.

July 10, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

JIL SANDER NAVY FASHION STORY "SWEET INTUITION"

FASHION STORY "SWEET INTUITION" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

July 06, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Louis Vuitton S/S2017 Mens Collection

Warm weather induces refined style, and Louis Vuitton returns with a line that’s not only refined, but avant-garde in its approach to incorporate a distinctive vision...

July 01, 2016 5:00 PM  |  Fashion

Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus S/S2017 Mens Collection

July 01, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

LINDER FASHION STORY "OUTSIDERS"

FASHION STORY “OUTSIDERS” is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

June 22, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

GUCCI "DIY" BAG

Gucci Introduces its New DIY (Do it Yourself) Handbag

June 17, 2016 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

RAINBOW FASHION WEEK JUNE17-24 2016

Rainbow Fashion Week (RFW) is taking over New York City for the third consecutive year, just in time for the pre-Pride events with “Eight Days of Queer Fashion Shows,” ...

June 16, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Pat Cleveland "Walking with the Muses" BOOK Event By MAO PR

Pat Cleveland celebrated the launch of her new book "Walking With the Muses" last week at the Jane hotel.

June 16, 2016 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

CHANEL CRUISE COLLECTION 2017

Chanel flew in 700 people for its 2017 cruise collection in Havana on the island of Cuba.

June 15, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE PARTY"ALL ABOUT IKEMEN LOVERS @TIKI TABU/SIXTY LES"

Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook

 

June 13, 2016 5:00 PM  |  Fashion

GUCCI CRUISE COLLECTION 2017

Not every brand is able to host a fashion show at Westminster Abbey, one of the most sacred churches in Britain.

June 08, 2016 5:00 PM  |  Fashion

Pages

SITE BY: monocomplex©Marbles & Marbles International Inc. Drupal Development by: DivDiv, NYC
▲ back to top ▲