TWELV Magazine Spring 2023 "ENIKO" Alexander McQueen Cover Fashion Story/ Interview
YIGAL AZROUËL NYFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR
September 26, 2016 11:00 AM
Layers. Embroideries. Details.
These three key words are what you are going to hear repeatedly when speaking of Yigal Azrouël’s Spring 2017 collection. Inspired by Africa and ancient tribal symbols, this delicate collection “calls for a reconnection to heritage and the art of craftsmanship”.
Layers
Emphasizing depth is one of the ideas for this ethnically inspired collection. Azrouël has a knack for using layers in an intriguing way. Mashing up multiple types of textiles, subtly weaving fern frond prints onto net meshes, and finishing up with a plissé detail on the back, the camouflage colored trench coat is decidedly a perfect illustration of this technique.
Embroideries
Sumptuous embroideries were used in symbolic motifs and natural elements. Aforementioned tribal symbols were embroidered at the sleeve of the kiwi green leather jacket, which is the first piece that the designer came up for the whole collection. Similar runic markings are also find on the pale-pink blazer, the military green romper and shirt, as well as the cream eyelet graphic dress. Natural patterns evolve into shapes of birds and leaves. The short light blue dress was hand-embroidered with birds in red and a variety of shapes of leaves in black and coral, effortlessly presenting a mysterious forest silhouette.
Details
Besides the delicately engineered embroiders, cowrie shells are intricately stitched on a range of pieces. A notable piece is the black halter-neck dress that has the cowries embellished vertically along the embroidery down the front. Those shell appliqués are presented everywhere throughout the collection, either on the hems, collars, or even the embroidered guipure and jacquards on other pieces.
All in all, Yigal Azrouël packs effortlessly sophisticated designs with an exploration of cultural approach into the Spring 2017 collection.
WRITTEN BY QIANRAN YUAN
EDITED BY SUSAN SCHELL
PHOTO CREDIT: YIGAL AZROUËL
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