TWELV Magazine Spring 2023 "ENIKO" Alexander McQueen Cover Fashion Story/ Interview
Roberto Cavalli MFW S/S18 Ready-to-Wear
October 02, 2017 12:00 PM
With the Spring/Summer 2018 shows of Milan Fashion Week now in the rearview mirror of fashion month, we can reflect on some of the visions thatpresent the most radical new creative direction for their respective houses. Among the extravagance and presentations of grandeur expected from the conventional drama of the Italian fashion landscape, a rather subdued show from Roberto Cavalli provided an intense contrast. With Cavalli's latest collection comes what the brand's new director Paul Surridge describes as being "about attitude rather than the accentuation of display.” And we couldn't agree more. The S/S18 line was a hard left from Cavalli's traditional Tuscan rococo reputation. As a house rooted in the ornateness and implicit impracticality of Italian couture, this new direction signals a destination very different from what many expected of the brand this season. Built on the theme of adaptability to the lifestyle of the modern woman, the line showcases a wardrobe constructed around versatility and practicality without sacrificing elegance.
As forthe new creative management of Cavalli, the news of Surridge's selection as replacement for Peter Dundas in early July was somewhat unexpected,with Surridge having kept a relatively low profile compared to many of his industry peers. Despite his lack ofcelebrity status, Surridge's experience in menswear, from working as assistant to Prada's Neil Barrett up until to his time as head of Z Zegna in 2015, precedes him. The English Surridge believes it's time for a more accessible kind of beauty within the Italian house, and the runway reflected this guidance. Sleek silhouettes featuring the echoes of staple animal prints and leather detail highlighted the familiar glamour of the house with a new feel for refined athleisure.
An era of innovation seems to be at the forefront of the house agenda. Cavalli has remained true to its codes of fine craftsmanship and femininity, but the emphasis has transferred to the human form itself– the power of the wearer– in a bold restructuring of energy.
WRITTEN BY AUDREY ROSE
EDITED BY HOLLIS DE LANEY
PHOTO CREDIT: ROBERTO CAVALLI
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