TWELV Magazine Spring 2023 "ENIKO" Alexander McQueen Cover Fashion Story/ Interview
Apocalyptic Romance with Gareth Pugh F/W2014 READY-TO-WEAR
March 13, 2014 12:37 PM
Romanticism and refinement are not terms often used in conjunction with the designs of Gareth Pugh, however these words may have some application to the F/W ‘14 collection by the designer, albeit in a futuristic and post-apocalyptic way. Large swaths of plastic, square plastic pailettes, and metallic sheeting cocooned the models in Pugh’s unique and armor-like silhouette, while the addition of fur pelts and twisted cream leather softened and lent an almost ethereal and romantic air to the collection. Stating this collection as “intuitive”, and not one afraid of experimentation - capes, tunics with funnel necklines, dramatically cinched waistlines, kimono shapes, and fur piecing techniques dominated the silhouettes of the largely monochromatic collection, shifting effortlessly from angularity and a jarring sense of disconnect and structure, to lush and refined drapings in a plethora of opulent and tastefully executed soft finishes.
In keeping with the futuristic feel of the collection, makeup on the models was minimal and Spartan, with a fresh yet alien sheen and aura exhibited, a theme also carried through in the futuristic yet almost Elizabethan hair treatments and chalk-dipped fingers.
As the show came to a close, model Sigrid Agren walked in a gown made entirely of industrial plastic sheeting, yet remarkably refined in silhouette, proving once again that in Gareth’s case, living on the edges is where he exists best.
WRITTEN BY: STEPHEN FISHER
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