Sophoe Auster Exclusive Interview / Fashion Story "THE BEAUTIFUL SOUNDS OF SOPHIE AUSTER" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
SAINT LAURENT PFW F/W2017 READY-TO-WEAR
March 07, 2017 2:00 PM
The insurmountable responsibility of designing a collection for Saint Laurent goes without saying. Following Hedi Slimane’s recent and massive commercial and critical success, the attention on Anthony Vacarello’s second collection for the legendary house could not have been greater. The Fall-Winter 2017 collection was shown at Saint Laurent’s under-construction location on the Rue de Bellechasse in Paris.
The Italian-Belgian designer presented the collection as an appreciation and reinterpretation Yves Saint Laurent’s “dark romanticism with a hint of perversity,” as Vacarello described. The collection aims to address this complex femininity, playing with several subtle paradoxes. Feminine and sensually-cut dresses made their way only a few inches down the models’ legs and were crafted from folds upon heavy folds of structural leathers and shearlings. Black and various shades of warm, retro, cognac tones beat their way down the runway to trance-like electronic sounds. These leathers were repurposed as endlessly-creased, knee-high boots, as well as knotty flower forms that garnished chokers and dresses, alike. While clearly inspired by the evening and after-hours, the collection retained a casual, basic, and wearable appeal. The 80’s lived on in party-inspired exaggerated shoulders, countless crystal rhinestones, pitch black velvet, and shining patent leather. Unmistakable, sculptural shapes and silhouettes found themselves in nearly ever design.
Although the runway show included both men’s and women’s looks, the healthy population of Saint Laurent menswear aficionados may still need to see more if the brand’s mother-company Kering wishes to keep up their heavy, Slimane-fueled fandom. Out of over one-hundred looks sent down the catwalk, only a handful were men’s. A variety of leather jackets were paired with knit-wear, followed by a later burst of skinny trousers and several decadent tuxedos.
Vacarello paid close attention to the archives in his debut collection, and for his second time around, the designer has done an applaudable job of approaching the brand’s multidimensional femininity through rough, confrontational romanticism. He also met the challenging prospect of respecting the French house’s heritage whilst remaining true to himself and his style as a designer. Gowns with waist-high slits splitting up a lone thigh– a Vacarello trademark– made a few loud appearances in the collection.
Casting for the show was refreshingly inclusive. The broad range of models made the presentation’s statement even more powerful. Rugged and feminine styles had a deceptive simplicity that created an in-your-face impact. The industrial, stadium-like location only added to the excitement. Like a warehouse party, the evening-ready looks felt strangely at home in the cold, dark expanse of an edifice. There is a legacy to be left behind, and it’s only a matter of time to experience the mark that Anthony Vacarello will leave behind. In the meantime, he is still afloat and thriving in his an environment of striking, sexy, and aggressive styles.
WRITTEN BY HOLLIS DE LANEY
PHOTO CREDIT: SAINT LAURENT
related posts
Sophie Auster Exclusive Interview / Fashion Story "The Beautiful Sounds of Sophie Auster"
KTZ Fashion Story "NEW MODERN"
Exclusive KTZ Fashion Story "NEW MODERN" is now available.
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
GUESS Fashion Story "GUESS WHO I AM?"
Exclusive GUESS Fashion Story "GUESS WHO I AM?" is now available.
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
SCHIELD Fall/Winter 2015-16
SCHIELD, an avant-garde jewelry line, holds a new concept of an art, fashion, and photography project...
LOUIS VUITTON "Series 3"
Nicolas Ghesquière has continued Louis Vuitton’s ongoing advertising campaign with "Series 3," featuring the LV Fall/Winter 2015-2016 collection...
Glamour Games: Gigi Hadid vs. Michael Kors
Rare are the moments when our favorite fashion icons step down from their sacred fame pedestals to act like normal human beings - just like us!
"Prada Raw" Eyewear Collection Spring /Summer 2015
“Prada Raw” is a new eyewear collection that was released this summer.
"KENZO FW15 Campaign Short Film By Gregg Araki” Progeny of Mastermind
KENZO’s designer duo Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have never failed to impress.
3.1 Phillip Lim Fashion Story "BLONDE ON BLONDE"
Exclusive 3.1 Phillip Lim Fashion Story "BLONDE ON BLONDE" is now available.
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
TWELV MAGAZINE TANABATA PARTY
Every year, on the seventh of July, two lovers - stars Vega and Altair, who are separated by the Milky Way, have the chance to meet for a single day.
Jason Wu Fashion Story "NEW DAWN FADES"
Exclusive Jason Wu Fashion Story "NEW DAWN FADES" is now available.
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
PARLEY FOR THE OCEANS
Last night, the TWELV team had the distinct pleasure of attending the United Nations x Parley Launch event.
Miu Miu Releases Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign “Subjective Relativity”
There is something fantastic about the moments when a fashion brand steps back from the world of campaigns with perfectly shot studio pictures.
Jill Stuart Fashion Story "EXIT DOOR"
Exclusive Jill Stuart Fashion Story "EXIT DOOR" is now available.
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
COOL CAT in collaboration with LOST ART
Cool Cat launched its new summer campaign in collaboration with Lost Art. Stylist Hissa Igarashi and photographer Chama brought this collaboration to life and created a compelling campaign.
NARS x Steven Klein
In celebration of an upcoming cosmetic collaboration, Steven Klein, Francois Nars, Etienne Russo, and Susanne Bartsch took over the historical Alder Manor in Yonkers, New York for a night of...
BACKSTAGE #7: A Woman
“Behind the scenes of TWELV Magazine’s inspired creations”
Balmain x H&M – Get Ready for the Balmainnation
It all started about a month ago at the Billboard Music Awards...
STACY MARTIN BECOMES MIU MIU’S FRAGRANCE MUSE
Miuccia Prada has finally deemed it appropriate for her highly regarded Miu Miu brand to produce a fragrance.
Y3 Fashion Story "Paint it Black"
Y3 One Brand Story "Paint It Black" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
Lykke Li For GUCCI '15 Campaign Film
Lykke Li stars in a new commercial/ short film for Gucci’s 2015 Spring/Summer collection.
TOUS Celebrates Their S/S2015 Miami Collection
TWELV was invited to attend a party by TOUS celebrating their Spring Summer 2015 Miami collection and Gala for TOUS, a capsule collaboration with Spanish blogger, Gala González.
AUBREY PEEPLES Exclusive INTERVIEW / FASHION STORY "GOOD & BAD GIRL"
AUBREY PEEPLES EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW / FASHION STORY "GOOD & BAD GIRL" is now updated!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
PRADA PRE-FALL AD CAMPAIGN: VAMPIRE CHIC
In true Prada fashion, the brand’s latest ad campaign poses questions about gender and what the sexes share with each other, or choose not to.
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO SS15 AD CAMPAIGN: AN ICY COOL TAKE ON SPRING
Spring collections are expected to contain friendly florals and playful, evocative colors. Christian Siriano, however, has a different idea about how to usher in the warm weather.
GOLA: CELEBRATING 110 YEARS OF RICH SNEAKER HERITAGE
110 years is a long time by anyone’s standards, but for a sneaker brand’s existence, it’s virtually unheard of. That is of course with the exception of U.K.
Fashion Story "Candy Store Rock by Bregje Heinen"
Exclusive Fashion Story "Candy Store Rock by Bregje Heinen" is now updated!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
TWELV MAGAZINE HAPPY SPRING PARTY @ Chloe 81
Spring has finally sprung here in NYC! Winter is starting to feel like a distant memory as the days are finally getting brighter and warmer.
MARCHESA SPRING 2016: TIMELESS ELEGANCE
Marchesa is known for classically feminine designs and complex yet tastefully understated details.
Madonna's Ghosttown Custom Made Wardrobe by Chrome Hearts
The apocalypse is here. Fire is burning through the streets, nobody to be found at first glance, but wait—a flawless figure is surviving with grace— B***h, she’s Madonna.
Fashion Story "Love Me Two Times"
Exclusive Fashion Story "Love Me Two Times" is now updated!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
SMELL GREAT THIS SPRING VIA ISSEY MIYAKE
Spring is just around the corner. And as an ode to the impending thaw and arrival of warmer weather, storied designer Issey Miyake has released a brand new limited edition fragrance. Entitled...
THE GUMMY BEAR BED
TWELV MAGAZINE X CRAIGS BED Fashion Story "THE GUMMY BEAR BED" is available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
CHANEL F/W2015 READY-TO-WEAR
Chanel’s Paris Fashion Week offering probably made its attendees really hungry.
CHRISTIAN DIOR 2015 READY-TO-WEAR
Fashion can be innovative, it can make a statement, it can capture the sentiment of an era, or it can just be downright cool. Dior’s Fall 2015 collection is most certainly the latter.