The Lanvin Spring-Summer 2017 runway presentation marks Bouchra Jarrar’s first show and second collection for the French fashion house, as well as reminds us that her eponymous label has now had...
Interview: Wei Lin and Mijia Zhang Unite Knitwear and Tech with PH5
February 10, 2018 11:00 AM
To be truly innovative, a designer must be able to control a garment's construction down to each thread. That's what makes PH5, the fashion house created by Wei Lin and Mijia Zhang, so extraordinary. Their luxury knits, with a mod-spaceage aesthetic are programmed thread-by-thread through a partnership between Zhang, the creative director, and Lin, who oversees production at her family's factory in Dongguan, China. The result is a seamless hybrid of form and function, technology and human ingenuity, glamour and fun.
"We have full control over everything, from start to finish," explains Zhang, from the balcony of the Samsung 837 building, as 17 models in head-to-toe PH5 knits frolicked in the staging area below. The mission to take knits where they have never gone before begins with Zhang sending a series of sketches to the engineers at the Lin factory, and through a series of correspondences, they arrive at the colorful works of wearable art featured on the models.
Signature PH5 design elements such as stripes, A-line skirts, asymmetric silhouettes, high-leg bodysuits, and straight-legged jumpsuits are present in the new collection as well, but for Fall/Winter 2018, Lin and Zhang decided to pay homage to Italian designers of the 1980s with vibrant colors: a red slack-sleeved dress and magenta A-line skirt with white trim are particularly striking. But for Lin and Zhang, functionality is just as important as design. They have engineered their garments to be comfortable on the skin, resistant to pilling and stretching, and easy to wash and care for.
Because technology is such an integral part of Lin and Zhang's design and production, they paid homage to the Dongguan factory that brings their ideas to life with a virtual reality display. It afforded curiosity-seekers at their fashion show a 360-degree look at the dozens of massive machines with flashing lights and knobs, controlled by highly-skilled engineers and machinists, that spit out meticulously constructed jumpsuits, skirts and dresses. In a further nod to the importance of tech in design, PH5 chose two of its models from Girls Who Code, a national non-profit dedicated to increasing interest and participation in tech fields by young women.
PH5 designs have been compared to Missoni, because of their knit construction and signature stripes, but I look at it more along the lines of early Pucci. Each piece is timeless and collectable, as wearable now as it will be in decades. To get your hands on a piece of Ph5 fashion history, you can check out their own e-commerce site, or look for select designs online at Shopbop and Moda Operandi. But if you are hunting for the knit knee-high boots seen in the F/W 2018 show, be forewarned. They were created in small numbers for the models to wear at the show, but Lin and Zhang have not yet decided whether to add them to their upcoming production run. On behalf of myself and several other shoe-hounds milling about the show, we desperately hope the turquoise boots get the green light.
WRITTEN BY KAREN-FRAGALA SMITH
PHOTOGRAPHY: RYOSUKE MIYAI
related posts
SAINT LAURENTS PFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR
The Spring-Summer 2017 Saint Laurent collection was certainly a finger-tapping moment of anticipation for the French luxury house, as well as for the devoted Saint Laurent following that has been...
CHROME HEARTS FOR THE WEEKEND'S ‘STARBOY’ COVER
After the release of THE WEEKND’s Beauty Behind the Madness, fans are impatiently awaiting his next big move.
DSQUARED2 FASHION STORY "DSQUARED2"
FASHION STORY “DSQUARED2" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
Marc Jacobs NYFW S/S2017 ready-to-wear
At Marc Jacobs, the hemlines keep rising and so do the platforms.
YIGAL AZROUËL NYFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR
Layers. Embroideries. Details.
TWELV MAGAZINE NYFW PARTY @M1-5LOUNGE
Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook
HELMUT LANG FASHION STORY "MY SIDE OF THE STREET"
FASHION STORY “MY SIDE OF THE STREET” is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
Erin Fetherston NYFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR
The Spring-Summer 2017 collection was a markedly important season for Erin Fetherston, serving not only as her 10th Anniversary New York Fashion Week, but also as her first...
KENZO WORLD THE NEW FRAGRANCE VIDEO by Spike Jonze
Formed by Creative Directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, KENZO Parfums unveils Kenzo World – the first feminine fragrance that “alludes to the force of the third eye and to spiritual protection...
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO NYFW S/S2017 Ready-to-Wear
An appraisal of the designs from Christian Siriano’s spring 2017 show would deem his work otherworldly.
Louis Vuitton Unveils New Fragrance Collection "Les Parfums"
The roles we assume each day, whether it’s being a powerful attorney, a fashion editor, or homemaker are all accompanied by their own specifics.
EYEGASM WORTHY GLASSES TO ACCESSORIZE YOUR B*TCH FACE
UNIQUE SILHOUETTE SUNGLASSES
Lodovico Zordanazzo STORY
Lodovico Zordanazzo is an Italian man with a London soul. Italy is where he was born but London is where he gave birth to his own namesake line of footwear.
TIFFANY & CO. F/W2016 CAMPAIGN WITH Lupita Nyong'o and Elle Fanning
Tiffany & Co. unveiled its new fall 2016 campaign a few days ago, and for the first time in the brand history it features famous faces : Oscar®-winning actress...
GUCCI F/W2016 CAMPAIGN
Bubbles popping. Bells ringing. Buses honking. Alessandro Michele has done it again with Gucci’s autumn/winter 2016 campaign.
DJ BEC ADAMS FASHION STORY "NO LAPTOP NO PROBLEM"
DJ BEC ADAMS FASHION STORY "NO LAPTOP NO PROBLEM" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI F/W2016 CAMPAIGN
What do indie bands, crystal sandals, and Grace Hartzel have in common? Well, they are all featured in Giuseppe Zanotti’s latest dazzling ad campaign.
CHANEL F/W2016 eyewear X Willow Smith
After being crowned a Chanel ambassador and electrifying the steps of the Met Gala in a car coat and clamdiggers this year, the ever creative and always fierce, Willow Smith,...
Balmain F/W2016 Campaign: WOLVES by Kanye West
“From the moment I heard that song, I knew we had to use it for this campaign,” Olivier Rousteing proclaims.
Citizens of Humanity Fall Collection
Skinny, slouchy, or flared, a nice pair of denim jeans is a must in any fashionista’s wardrobe.
CHANEL F/W2016 HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION
You can always count on Karl Lagerfeld to create some major intrigue! Just when you think you've seen it all, he shows it's only half time and that he remains a force to be reckoned with.
TWELV MAGAZINE PARTY "GEISHA ON FIRE @ M1-5 lounge"
Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook
VIKTOR & ROLF F/W2016 HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION
Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren took a trip to the past to create an extraordinary new collection – all from previous collections.
TWELV MAGAZINE "TANABATA PARTY @LADUREE GARDEN & AFTER PARTY @HAPPY ENDING NYC"
Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook
JIL SANDER NAVY FASHION STORY "SWEET INTUITION"
FASHION STORY "SWEET INTUITION" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
Louis Vuitton S/S2017 Mens Collection
Warm weather induces refined style, and Louis Vuitton returns with a line that’s not only refined, but avant-garde in its approach to incorporate a distinctive vision...
LINDER FASHION STORY "OUTSIDERS"
FASHION STORY “OUTSIDERS” is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
GUCCI "DIY" BAG
Gucci Introduces its New DIY (Do it Yourself) Handbag
RAINBOW FASHION WEEK JUNE17-24 2016
Rainbow Fashion Week (RFW) is taking over New York City for the third consecutive year, just in time for the pre-Pride events with “Eight Days of Queer Fashion Shows,” ...
Pat Cleveland "Walking with the Muses" BOOK Event By MAO PR
Pat Cleveland celebrated the launch of her new book "Walking With the Muses" last week at the Jane hotel.
CHANEL CRUISE COLLECTION 2017
Chanel flew in 700 people for its 2017 cruise collection in Havana on the island of Cuba.
TWELV MAGAZINE PARTY"ALL ABOUT IKEMEN LOVERS @TIKI TABU/SIXTY LES"
Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook
GUCCI CRUISE COLLECTION 2017
Not every brand is able to host a fashion show at Westminster Abbey, one of the most sacred churches in Britain.