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In stark contrast to Rei Kawakubo’s unsettlingly beautiful blood-red Spring collection, the designer’s Fall offering was decidedly lugubrious in solemn black and white. Entitled “Ceremony Of Separation,” the looks were each uniquely eccentric, united only in their representation of different forms of grief. “Separation” can be read in many different ways; the disintegration of a cherished relationship, the loss of a loved one, or the distancing from a passion. Kawakubo wanted to include all incarnations of grief in this exhibition, and she did so acutely and successfully.
The looks were collectively more of a walking art installation than a fashion show. Massive sculptures of fabric manipulated in baffling positions enveloped the models, creating insane silhouettes and intense depth. The first of the bunch were two white pillow-esque “dresses,” the first an amalgamation of tied bundles, the second a sleeker iteration akin to a straight jacket with large bows on the front. There were golden pieces with accents reminiscent of 1920’s football helmets, massive black creations that evoked endless shadow swallowing a victim whole, and daintier white looks with delicate bows. Each of the models wore a menacing black lace veil, rounding out the theme of mourning and contemplation.
Rei Kawakubo’s penchant for injecting intense emotion into her creations is honorable and important for the fashion industry as a whole. Check out her Fall 15 RTW collection above and let the morose sentiment sweep you away.
WRITTEN BY: JASON GREENSPAN
PHOTO CREDIT: COMME DES GARÇONS
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