After fifteen years at Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière quietly left his post as creative director last November.
NEW TYPE #3: GLORIA YU interview
"Introducing a new generation of designers"
Gloria Yu's first collection of headbands for her ready-to-wear line YUNOTME - 'Quirks of Being A Wall Flower' - is now about to make its New York debut at HOTOVELI. Hand-crafted in her hometown of Hong Kong, this range of headbands celebrates feminine charm and empowerment while reinterprets the extraterrestrial edge of her sculptural crowns, creating statement pieces for the cosmopolitan dweller.
------------------ Gloria Yu's INTERVIEW ------------------
1. What got you interested in working in fashion and design?
GLORIA YU: I guess I just needed to do something that doesn’t have a correct answer. I grew up in a family of doctors, and I almost started learning algebra before I learned how to count. Even though I got straight As in high school, I never felt like I was doing anything right, that I fit in. On hindsight, I realized it was only when I am creating, be it a design, a piece of writing, or even a business, that I truly feel comfortable. There is no right or wrong answer, only my own.
2. What is it about headpieces that gets you excited?
GY: I am just constantly fascinated by its various symbolic values in different cultures.
3. Where do you get inspiration for your headpieces?
GY: Politics, literature, nature, people.
4. How do you see the headpiece as "empowerment and protection?"
GY: In various traditional cultures, the headpiece ranges from headdresses of Egyptian Gods to crowns on kings to veils on women, and it serves a different function in different forms and contexts. It could signify your position in the room, in a country, or it could shield your identity – in both situations, the headpiece is a form of protection. As for empowerment – that depends on the wearer. The headpiece offers protection – it is up to the wearer to see that as oppression or empowerment. I intend for mine to offer the latter.
5. Do you have a favorite piece from your current collection?
GY: Probably ‘White Hat’ – the white porcelain ‘bob cut’ headpiece.
6. Your pieces are both very artistic and editorial; do you consider yourself more of an artist or a designer? Or perhaps both?
GY: Both. Some of my pieces are completely my own artistic expression, but I love designing my ready-to-wear line of headbands Yunotme as well, because I want to create something the every day woman could wear as well - to work, to brunch, to a party…. Even Tilda Swinton has her days off, (I think,) but she is still Tilda!
7. How would you describe your work?
GY: Interesting. (Such an underrated word.)
8. What is next for you? What can we look forward to seeing from you?
GY: More crowns and everything else. I will be showing a new collection of headpieces and Yunotme headbands in February during NYFW, and participating in an exciting art installation later in the year. I am also starting up an interview-based site with my best friend, and helping Michael, the founder of Hotoveli search for new, intriguing creative talents. Eventually, I will adopt a pet pig and have my own wine bar as well. But one thing at a time.
WRITTEN & INTERVIEWED BY: SUSAN SCHELL
PHOTOGRAPHY BY: SIMON BIRCH (FIRST PHOTO), AUSTIN KLEIN(2ND PHOTO - 6TH PHOTO)
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