After fifteen years at Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière quietly left his post as creative director last November.
NEW TYPE #16: LINDER - SAM LINDER AND KIRK MILLAR INTERVIEW
“Introducing a new generation of quick and fresh minded designers”
Sam Linder and Kirk Millar are the two founders of a luxury Menswear ready-to-wear label, Linder, which they launched in 2013. Located at 128 Thompson Street in New York City’s SoHo Neighborhood, it comprises its independent clothing line and a handful of other men’s labels from around the world. Every piece of the brand’s in house clothing showcase the two designers’ design philosophy - that is, to come up with something “off-the-wall” and with a quirky multicultural sensibility. As for their shop, it is a “place of discovery,” for both their customers and Linder and Millar as well, in which they keep on experimenting with their unique aesthetic.
--- LINDER AND MILLAR'S INTERVIEW ---
1. How you meet each other and what motivated you to start a brand together?
We met years ago at a store. We connected and became friends months after...through conversations we started thinking about a brand...
2. Is there any specific reason you decided to name your brand after Linder?
Its not a question we can easily answer…it was a subjective and personal decision to have gone with the name Linder.
3. Would you say that both of you share a similar taste in terms of fashion?
No. I wouldn't say so. I think typologically we have vast differences, and core similarities that show up in our creative process. Fashion-wise we approach it from very different angles.
4. Are there times when your ideas diverge? How do you managed to solve these moments?
All the time! But that’s the strength of the collection. It’s important for us to be stretched and pushed into new ways of thinking. We really work to see each other’s perspective even if at first uncomfortable. It’s a rich process.
5. We see that you not only sell your own clothes, but stock third party brands as well. What kind of brands will get a "yes" from you, and what kinds will not?
We have really shifted our focus. The store is now a very personal place that is becoming a new kind of venue for us. As we have come into a new place with the line, the store is also becoming a new place.
6. You defined Linder as a luxury Menswear label. But as the line between genders is blurring more and more, have you ever consider creating more unisex pieces?
We do make androgynous pieces, but we use a male fit model. There have been thoughts on womenswear in the future, but no, wouldn't call what we do “unisex”. The word seems to strip away the sexuality we want to feel in our clothes.
7. By looking at your look book for Fall/Winter collection in which you presented your clothes in a boxing gym, it seems that your taking boxing as your inspiration. Where did this inspiration come from?
We wouldn't say that was the “inspiration”. We enjoyed using that space as a contrast to the more “evening” and “soft” elements of that collection.
8. When thinking about boxing, it often times gives off a kind of brutish and violent vibe. But butterflies are associated with vulnerability. What is your rationale for presenting these two seemingly contradictory elements together in your Fall/Winter collection?
Again, it was a contrast, so butterflies are kind of these creatures that exist, go back into a place of solitude, and go through rebirth coming out with an expanded ability and view. That collection was a kind of debut for us into the world…a sort of rebirth of our brand.
9. You have already collaborated with a few brands, such as Hus-Hus. Are you looking for other brands for future collaboration? What types of brand would you take into consideration?
At the moment we are very focused on our brand and store. We do have a couple of long-development collaborations in the works.
10. Linder is a very young brand, it has a lot of space to grow and expand. Where do you see Linder in ten years?
Still thriving, still learning, and creating items that strike a curiosity in us. For any serious designer, designing and being able to sustain that creative cycle is not a goal necessarily, but a life wish.
INTERVIEWED & WRITTEN BY: QIANRAN YUAN
PHOTO CREDIT: LINDER
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