In Italian, ‘Ricostru’ means ‘reconstruction,’ but designer Rico Manchit Au was constructing an entirely new notion of designer Chinese fashion when she launched her label in 2011.
WHO LET THE DOGS OUT (AGAIN) ? GIVENCHY MENS PRE-FALL 2013
December 18, 2012 2:37 PM
If the house codes for Givenchy’s men’s line under Riccardo Tisci wasn’t already clearly ingrained, Tisci’s new Pre-Fall collection ensured that a Givenchy look could be spotted a mile away. His new Pre-Fall collection reads as a greatest hits of Tisci’s past menswear outings, which have become known for mixing luxury with the high-street. Rottweiler mania has finally abated (other than the canine adorned totes and iPhone cases which continue to sell out instantly on the world wide web), but a new dog has been let loose: the Doberman. Adorning tartan jumpers and the brand’s signature oversize T’s, sweatshirts and bomber jackets these Dobermans are deftly styled with leather leggings, slim trousers, and the newest house staple, the skirt.
A main purpose of a Pre-Fall collection is to keep the shelves stocked with new merchandise for fervid fashionistos. This Pre-Fall outing is guaranteed to see these dedicated followers of fashion agog amongst the first to be street-snapped with a Doberman emblazoned on their chest: a symbol of belonging to a luxurious patriciate. Staying true to recent tropes, Tisci also references his AW’12 collection with tone-on-tone denim button ups, and button downs featuring those infamous stars embroidered round the neckline. Another standout is the “Maison HDG” printed off-center on stiff tailored shirts referencing both the House of Givenchy as well as its founder, Hubert de Givenchy (who Tisci noted as a referential focal point in his most recent womenswear outing which spotlighted 60’s inspired ruffled shift dresses). But always adding a sense of the cheekily sublime, the rear of the tailored dress shirts plastered “Pervert” and numbers channeling varsity jackets and their urban high-street ubiquity.
Filled with “iconic motorcycle looks and meatpacker’s imagery,” as evident in the industrial motorcycle garage in which the lookbook shots took place, Tisci describes this season’s Team Givenchy captain as “this elegant man with strength who knows how to mix couture and urban street elements. He’s got the confidence to play with his own look.” No truer words have been said. The Givenchy man drools over pairing a fearless Doberman print with a softened skirt and supple lambskin leggings or conversely pairing razor sharp trousers with oversized tops with impressionistic, almost ethereal, iterations of the canine de jour. It’s this intrepid play of polarities that defines the Givenchy man and that continues to make Tisci’s collections instant éclat.
WRITTEN BY: MICHAEL COSTA
PHOTO CREDIT: GIVENCHY
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