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The Independent Spirit of Yves Saint Laurent Summer 2022
“We were invited to a friend’s house who was throwing a party. At one point, I no longer spot Yves. I look for him and find him with a young unknown girl. She had wedge heels, a turban on her head, and things she had tinkered into clothes. It was Paloma Picasso.” Pierre Bergé.
Anthony Vaccarello launched the Saint Laurent Summer 2022 collection by paying tribute to the momentous meeting of Yves Saint Laurent and 1970s ‘it” girl Paloma Picasso. The infamous meeting changed the direction of the design house from buttoned up, in good taste, too perfect silhouettes to a freer expression of street wear. The collection celebrates the woman who is unique, confident, subtly sexy and effortlessly chic in every aspect of her appearance. Paloma was an innovator of studied nonchalance and inventive dressing by combining the masculine with the glamorous. The collection is a study in harmonious antagonisms by showcasing austere lines against revealing curves and meticulous cuts made radical. Printed flowers dug up from the archives and clashes of colors married in harmony. Pants were either competently structured or oversized relaxed in style. Accessories play a major role by creating tension with the silhouette, not simply adorning the wearer.
“For a long time, I wanted to transpose this meeting between Paloma Picasso and Yves Saint Laurent, whose importance few realize in the designer’s creative journey. It is a moment to which I am sensitive as a designer, because for me it is the defining moment when Saint Laurent’s fashion creativity became a style.” Anthony Vaccarello
Credit: Saint Laurent
WRITTEN BY NATHALIE MILLER
EDITED BY KAREN YABUTA
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