BALENCIAGA’s 19 winter campaign see’s Paris as the inspiration.
SAINT LAURENT PFW F/W2017 READY-TO-WEAR
March 07, 2017 2:00 PM
The insurmountable responsibility of designing a collection for Saint Laurent goes without saying. Following Hedi Slimane’s recent and massive commercial and critical success, the attention on Anthony Vacarello’s second collection for the legendary house could not have been greater. The Fall-Winter 2017 collection was shown at Saint Laurent’s under-construction location on the Rue de Bellechasse in Paris.
The Italian-Belgian designer presented the collection as an appreciation and reinterpretation Yves Saint Laurent’s “dark romanticism with a hint of perversity,” as Vacarello described. The collection aims to address this complex femininity, playing with several subtle paradoxes. Feminine and sensually-cut dresses made their way only a few inches down the models’ legs and were crafted from folds upon heavy folds of structural leathers and shearlings. Black and various shades of warm, retro, cognac tones beat their way down the runway to trance-like electronic sounds. These leathers were repurposed as endlessly-creased, knee-high boots, as well as knotty flower forms that garnished chokers and dresses, alike. While clearly inspired by the evening and after-hours, the collection retained a casual, basic, and wearable appeal. The 80’s lived on in party-inspired exaggerated shoulders, countless crystal rhinestones, pitch black velvet, and shining patent leather. Unmistakable, sculptural shapes and silhouettes found themselves in nearly ever design.
Although the runway show included both men’s and women’s looks, the healthy population of Saint Laurent menswear aficionados may still need to see more if the brand’s mother-company Kering wishes to keep up their heavy, Slimane-fueled fandom. Out of over one-hundred looks sent down the catwalk, only a handful were men’s. A variety of leather jackets were paired with knit-wear, followed by a later burst of skinny trousers and several decadent tuxedos.
Vacarello paid close attention to the archives in his debut collection, and for his second time around, the designer has done an applaudable job of approaching the brand’s multidimensional femininity through rough, confrontational romanticism. He also met the challenging prospect of respecting the French house’s heritage whilst remaining true to himself and his style as a designer. Gowns with waist-high slits splitting up a lone thigh– a Vacarello trademark– made a few loud appearances in the collection.
Casting for the show was refreshingly inclusive. The broad range of models made the presentation’s statement even more powerful. Rugged and feminine styles had a deceptive simplicity that created an in-your-face impact. The industrial, stadium-like location only added to the excitement. Like a warehouse party, the evening-ready looks felt strangely at home in the cold, dark expanse of an edifice. There is a legacy to be left behind, and it’s only a matter of time to experience the mark that Anthony Vacarello will leave behind. In the meantime, he is still afloat and thriving in his an environment of striking, sexy, and aggressive styles.
WRITTEN BY HOLLIS DE LANEY
PHOTO CREDIT: SAINT LAURENT
related posts
TWELV MAGAZINE SUMMER PARTY@PUBLIC HOTEL
As the Men's New York Fashion Week came to a close, TWELV hosted a party on June 26th for everyone in need of an unwind during this blistering summer.
BALENCIAGA PHONE HOLDER BAG
BALENCIAGA phone holder bag, first seen in the Winter 19 runway show, launches on July 12th.
BALENCIAGA made such a cutest bag! Check it out!
FASHION STORY "STARDUST MEMORIES"
FASHION STORY "STARDUST MEMORIES" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
TWELV MAGAZINE SPRING PARTY @PUBLIC ROOF
We had spring fashion party at Public hotel rooftop. Very successful event and all guests enjoy in our amazing night. Check out super cool guests photos by CHAMA.
DIOR MEN'S SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION
The past of the future, now becoming then.The notion of the relic – The idea of constant evolution, investigation and creation of history – Sits behind every haute couture maison. T...
FASHION STORY "LA FEMME" by CHAMA
FASHION STORY "LA FEMME" by CHAMA is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
Swedish Midsummer Party 6/21/19 By Tommy Saleh/ NY Cult
It is officially summer! Well, Midsummer if you ask the Swedes!
Raf Simons F/W 2019 Campaign
Raf Simons Fall/ Winter 2019 Campaign
Check out their newest beautiful campaign shot by Willy Vanderperre and styled by Olivier Rizzo!
Photographer: Willy Vanderperre
DSQUARED2 FASHION STORY "WONDER WOMEN"
FASHION STORY "WONDER WOMEN" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
CITIZEN OF HUMANITY FASHION STORY "CITIZEN POL"
FASHION STORY "CITIZEN POL" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
"LESS IS MORE" AG & Blanda | Capsule Collection
The AG & BLANDA capsule celebrates women, water, and the interconnectedness of the human experience, illustrating how the support of one another leads to a...
M·A·C "POWDER KISS CABARET " EVENT
New York, NY (April 10th2019)… On April 9th, the spring event season kicked into high gear with the celebration of M·A·C COSMETICSPowder Kiss Lipstick collection. Sony Hall, the...
Cartier Supports Trailblazing Female Entrepreneurs With Cash Grants and Personal Coaching
The Cartier company is renowned as a purveyor of fine jewelry for collectors who demand--and can afford--the very best.
LOUIS VUITTON HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE
Louis Vuitton Holiday Gift Guide
Celebrate and show your love to everyone (and even to yourself) this holiday season with Louis Vuitton!
SMILE
Lagerfeld is Golden A Look at Chanel’s Metiers D’Art
Start with the exceptional savoir-faire of the French metiers d’art, sprinkle generously with ancient Egypt, add a dash of New York City 80s streetwear, and wrap it up in an iconic boxy...
TWELV MAGAZINE HALLOWEEN PARTY 2018 @PUBLIC ROOF
There was a different type of dress code at TWELV Magazine's most recent party, one that involved copious amounts of glitter, wigs, superhero capes and animal prints.
DIOR MFW S/S19 READY-TO-WEAR
On the surface, dance and fashion could appear as two distinct forms of art. Closer consideration, however, reveals similarities of monumental magnitude.
TRAVIS THE UNDERGROUND: Chelsea & Walker NYFW S/S19 Backstage
When asked by my old friend and mentor Hissa Charma to shoot the backstage photos for the Chelsea & Walker show it was an exciting new challenge for me.
Chelsea & Walker NYFW S/S19
It was big hair, bold suits and boogie music at the Chelsea and Walker SS19 New York Fashion Week Runway Presentation last week.
Leuni NYFW S/S19
To beat the heat of the early days of fashion week, Leuni's cool Spring Summer 2019 fashion show took place on September 4th at 123 Bowery.
Chelsea & Walker x Twelv Magazine NYFW S/S19 Party @Better Days
It was Saturday Night Fever at Better Days...except that it was Sunday.
HUMANITY in Charitable Campaign #WeAreAllHumanity
In today’s political climate, more and more designers realize fashion cannot not be political.
TWELV MAGAZINE "TANABATA PARTY" @LADUREE
Summer is for easy nights with beautiful people, and the love that comes with it. That's what Tanabata, the Japanese midsummer festival, is all about.
DOLCE&GABBANA "GRAFFITI SUNGLASSES ARE AS FUN AS DRAWING ON WALLS"
"GRAFFITI SUNGLASSES ARE AS FUN AS DRAWING ON WALLS"
The Life Ball in Vienna
Perry Ellis. Willi Smith. Gia Carangi. Tina Chow. Franco Moschino. Herb Ritts. Way Brandy. Angel Estrada. Leigh Bowery. Chester Weinberg. Halston.
Fashion Story "Over the Hills and Far Away"
FASHION STORY " OVER THE HILLS AND FAR AWAY" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
"Azzedine Alaia: The Couturier" at the Design Museum
The Design Museum in London has curated a new design exhibition in honor and exploration of the late designer Azzedine Alaia.
TWELV MAGAZINE "BLONDE SASHIMI FROM PLANET TWELV" PARTY @BETTER DAYS
TWELV is back again at Better Days on Broome Street for our monthly "Blonde Sashimi from Planet TWELV" Party.
Interview: ThreeASFOUR x Epson's cymaSCOPE Capsule
All clothing design involves an amalgamation between form and function and a negotiation between art and commerce.
TWELV MAGAZINE "BLONDE SASHIMI FROM PLANET TWELV" PARTY @BETTER DAYS
TWELV returned to Better Days on the Lower East Side for our legendary "Blonde Sashimi from Planet TWELV" as New York City celebrated the 'medicinal' day of April 20th (4/20).
Pier59's Federico Pignatelli Proposes a Model's Bill of Rights
Federico Pignatelli, founder and owner of Pier59 Studios and the Art and Fashion Group Company and Industry Model Management called for a gathering of the fashion industry on Thursday...
Fashion Story "Ne Va Pas Tranquillement"
FASHION STORY "NE VA PAS TRANQUILLEMENT" is now available!
Maison Kitsuné X Ader Error Launch Genderless Capsule
Maison Kitsuné’s latest collaboration hit stores on Friday, as the Parisian label teamed up with Korean cult sensation Ader Error for a 15-piece, genderless capsule collection.