In Italian, ‘Ricostru’ means ‘reconstruction,’ but designer Rico Manchit Au was constructing an entirely new notion of designer Chinese fashion when she launched her label in 2011.
SAINT LAURENT F/W2015 "PUNK ROCK PARADISE"
March 09, 2015 1:42 PM
At first glance, I couldn’t help but think that every model in the Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2015 exhibition looked like Courtney Love during her Hole days. Exaggerated jet-black eyeliner and fire truck red lipstick combined with Hedi Slimane’s adopted punk/grunge aesthetic vision made for a dramatic showing. While undoubtedly appealing to young fashionistas and music-minded sartorialists, some questions have been raised about the collections disheveled appearance and its place in the world of high fashion. Robin Givhan, as part of her Paris Fashion Week coverage for the New York Post, keenly noted that couture has historically been measured by its proximity to perfection, and Saint Laurent’s high priced ripped stockings are anything but that. It’s a very interesting point, but nonetheless, Hedi Slimane’s Paris Fashion Week showing was captivating and sure to be a tremendous commercial success.
This collection absolutely nailed the punk aesthetic. Tattered prom dresses, suspenders, and a whole mess of black leather evoked rank dive-bar basements, stale beer and overcrowded rock shows. Most of the models looked like they had recently been in a fight - their garments tattered, coats slumped lackadaisically over their shoulders. The looks were meant to emit a devil-may-care attitude, and they most certainly did.
The dresses were decidedly short and varying in pattern and texture - some black leather, some zebra print, and some in vibrant color like the hot pink number peppered with black polka dots. The coats were equally as diverse, ranging from oversized cheetah prints to fitted black leather biker pieces.
Some of the standouts were the most inherently punk looks, like the suit pants with sport coat and suspenders covering the see-through polka dot top. Punk seeks to mock the establishment, and these looks took a business aesthetic and blasphemed it with dramatic tailoring and exposure.
Saint Laurent Fall 2015 will be commercially successful. Hedi Slimane has exhibited a long-standing appreciation for music and the trends that it produces. This hard-edged take on high fashion is undeniably cool and a welcomed break from the 70’s haze that has enveloped the scene for so long now. Check out the badass looks above. Enjoy!
WRITTEN BY: JASON GREENSPAN
PHOTO CREDIT: SAINT LAURENT
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