In Italian, ‘Ricostru’ means ‘reconstruction,’ but designer Rico Manchit Au was constructing an entirely new notion of designer Chinese fashion when she launched her label in 2011.
Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus S/S2017 Mens Collection
July 01, 2016 2:00 PM
Contemporary fantasy is the realm into which Comme des Garçons’s Spring 2017 menswear line ventures. The theme, “Naked Kings" is a key phrase that literally sprawls across the back of Rei Kawakubo’s pieces this season. Her designs work to reference the fairytale Rumpelstiltskin—a tale of a king who unknowingly parades around naked in the mistaken conviction that only the ignorant are unable to see his finely made clothing. His subjects, fearful of appearing foolish, do not say anything, but rather a child works to speak truth of the King’s naked reality.
Transparent clothing is the staple of this line with PVC as the main material. Layers of opacity drape upon the models as woven and printed patterns fill the see-through clothing. With Rumpelstiltskinin mind, there is an air of regality in the line as models walk wearing unconventional capes and greatcoats.
Black, white, transparent, gray, red and baby blue are the dominant themes of this season, with pale bodies as the backdrop color. Clear raincoat pieces adorn traditional trench bodies, and shredded hems paired with paint splashed shoes bring a coherence to this otherwise abstract line. Black and white Nike high tops frequent the runway, as youthful and relatable pieces these sneakers ground the outfit’s extraordinary designs. Headpieces included, all aspects of Comme des Garçons this season presents a modern take on the traditional suit and out wear with a hidden message.
Although Kawakubo designed the line with the aforementioned fairytale in mind this line echoes a stronger message of the time. The clear material sends a hidden message of the veiling and unveiling of masculinity. With gender roles and masculinity taking new forms in recent years, this line presents menswear in a new way, with a melding of masculine and feminine style—models adorned in wigs, dresses and color see-through trenches tells a story of a different male, one whom hides nothing. Perhaps the designer herself sees herself as the voice of reason, using her line to expose the illusions of fashion, the industry, and society. The wearability of this line is questionable but the message it sends is strong and ambiguous as it can be interpreted in many ways. Regardless, this season's line presents a pleasant surprise in the menswear industry.
WRITTEN BY CAITLIN KING
PHOTO CREDIT: Comme Des Garçons
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