In Italian, ‘Ricostru’ means ‘reconstruction,’ but designer Rico Manchit Au was constructing an entirely new notion of designer Chinese fashion when she launched her label in 2011.
CHANEL F/W2014 COUTURE COLLECTION
July 11, 2014 6:00 PM
On Tuesday July 8th, for the presentation of the CHANEL FALL 2014 Haute Couture collection, KARL LAGERFELD, turned the GRAND PALAIS into a huge terrace evoking the décor of a Parisian apartment. The set design set, inspired by the visionary architect LE CORBUSIER and VERSAILLES, featured two massive fireplaces lit up with digital flames at each end of the runway. Above the mantle, stood big baroque mirrors and the CHANEL logo plastered the center of the catwalk.
The decadence of the set is no surprise since the French house is known for elaborate runway shows; for example the CHANEL Supermarket and CHANEL Island in Dubai. But what shocked most, is the unconventional materials that shown up in the collection. Honoring LE CORBUSIER, the architect who made concrete a staple of modern design, LAGERFELD incorporated concrete, yes concrete, into the designs. For the first time ever, concrete was made into actual fabric by uniting it with crystal and sequin embroideries. A shirtfront, a martingale belt, and evening and day clothing was made from the material.
There were other special elements in the collection such as the jackets and skirted frock coats fastened with metal and concrete buttons or by staples. The “cycling shorts à la française” or bloomers motif seen throughout the show were worn under little dresses with marquise volumes, shortened to the knee. MAISON MICHEL’s little hats attached to the back of the models’ heads were another thread that pulled the collection together. Cohesively, the girls all wore “des tongs très chic” (very chic flip-flops) on their feet, which made it easy for them to strut in the designs. The color palette of the collection had range, spanning from black and white with fiery red and gold to cooler shades of sky blue and concrete.
The show closed with long, white, heavily embroidered gowns. And if there weren’t already enough surprises, a seven-months-pregnant model, ASHLEIGH GOOD, graced the runway as the finale girl. She elegantly walked across the set and was joined by LAGERFELD himself who was greeted with applause. The two soon disappeared behind sheer panel doors and all the models emerged on set for a final walk. The girls, adorned in all 70 looks, stood in two groups on opposite ends on the runway resembling what looked like a CHANEL army. Both troops then walked towards each other vanishing into the closing doors, marking the end of the CHANEL thrill that was the 2014 Haute Couture show.
WRITTEN BY: KAMARA WILLIAMS
PHOTO CREDIT: CHANEL
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