In Italian, ‘Ricostru’ means ‘reconstruction,’ but designer Rico Manchit Au was constructing an entirely new notion of designer Chinese fashion when she launched her label in 2011.
BACK TO BLACK: BOTTEGA VENETA’S F/W2013 READY-TO-WEAR
May 16, 2013 2:15 PM
Tomas Maier’s Fall Winter collection for Bottega Veneta explored updated classic silhouettes with modern details, fully representative of his French and Italian roots. His runway was filled with figure-flattering shapes made from sophisticated fabrics that created effortless structure and balance, surpassing the fashion community’s expectations for what style.com calls “anonymous, understated luxury” that most women covet.
Raquel Zimmerman opened the show in knee-length black coat, tied at the waist completed with all black accessories. She looked reminiscent of a young Grace Kelly, with a small smirk and flirty gaze.
The collection had strong 1940’s influence, which was apparent in the details: leather gloves, wool overcoats, round toe shoes, woven purses, and cinched in waists. The designs were feminine and sleek, in perfect proportion to the lace-up booties and pumps; structured shoulders created balance and ease. Maier kept to a simple color palette, only utilizing abstract, floral-like prints on a few dresses. The majority of the solid-color looks balanced functionality and style; almost every outfit would be wearable directly off the runway.
Make-up was clean and practical, highlighting the female models’ cheekbones with tan blush, red lipstick and strong brows. Hair was soft and simple: every model had large, romantic teased curls, pinned down on the side to ensure focus was on their faces and overall look.
The color palette transitioned from black to white, red to yellow, yellow to brown, and finally back to black. This movement suggested seasonal changes.
Most of the looks only featured one or two pieces of clothing, which were only minimally accessorized with waist belts and small purses. None of the garments overwhelmed the models; none of the jewelry was excessive. It fit his mantra of “the product is the star."
Maier’s evening dresses were the exception in this collection; many featured layered necklaces and low necklines that juxtaposed the more tasteful coats and turtlenecks.
Raquel Zimmerman also closed the show in a black curve-hugging sleeveless dress with allover ruching and round toe pumps. A small, metallic clutch suggested this outfit would be more appropriate for evening, even though like many of the other looks in the collection, could transition perfectly from day to night.
This might not have been the most outrageous collection of the Fall 2013, but it presented women with many fashionable, appropriate options to update any modern wardrobe.
WRITTEN BY: SARAH GRANETZ
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