It takes a certain kind of confidence for a designer to stage a collection in front of one of the most striking buildings in modern architecture, overlooking the magnificent cliffs and waterfront...
LINDER NYFW F/W18 READY-TO-WEAR SHOW & INTERVIEW
February 16, 2018 9:00 AM
Fall-Winter 2018 marked an amiable separation of the Linder design duo, with Kirk Millar leading the men’s collection and Sam Linder taking control of womenswear. When asked what he thought of the result, Linder felt it was a pleasant success. “Kirk is being more fully Kirk, and I’m being more fully Sam,” he said backstage, following the conclusion of the women’s New York Fashion Week runway show.
The collection was shown at the St. Mark’s Church in the East Village, checking off an item from Sam Linder’s bucket list. “I’ve wanted to do a show here since we’ve been doing shows,” he said, and it was clear the venue was not only personal to Linder, but also very familiar. “I’ve been in New York for 25 years, and I’ve been hanging out around here the whole time. I’ve been to a wedding here. I know people that grew up across the street. I just felt like it had to happen.” The sanctuary boasts being the second-oldest church in Manhattan, and Linder’s show adds a small piece of history to it’s storied past.
Fit for a church, the show conjured something of a pagan ritual. Oversized draping hoods, anatomically stitched white knits, and high-cowl necks created an enchanting fantasy, as a cinematic soundtrack evoked the ambient sounds of a forest. One model partitioned the show into three sections, each time wearing the same black sleeveless dress with a high-cut round neck, grasping a crystal-hemisphere emblazoned clutch. As Sam Linder put it, she served as somewhat of a “sorceress who presided over the whole ceremony.” Separated by the elements, the first grouping consisted of a teal palette with watercolor-esque prints, followed by a selection of woody floral pieces and grey plaids, and the final looks created a darker semblance, with unmistakably fire-inspired prints and a standout, metallic gold coat, trimmed with over a foot of leather fringe from it’s hem.
Linder’s show notes named Artemis, the lunar virgin goddess, as the “animating spirit” of the collection, and recalls that when the hunter Actaeon met her gaze, he turned into a stag, only before being killed by his own hounds, and so it was only appropriate that leather handbags be suspended by chains from an archer’s bow. But while the Greek mythology served as the inspiration, it was not to shroud Linder’s motivation behind the collection. Beneath the magic and mystique, he designed the collection for the woman who does not heed the male gaze, saying “I just didn’t want to think about women’s clothes in terms of how somebody reacts to a woman. I wanted to think of them in terms of someone who was dressing for another reason– dressing for her own purposes, like what’s she’s going to be doing that day.” The show was mythologic in spirit, but Linder’s starting point for the collection was far from allegorical.
WRITTEN BY HOLLIS DE LANEY
PHOTO CREDIT: COURTESY OF LINDER
related posts
3.1 PHILLIP LIM FASHION STORY "SUNDAY MORNING"
FASHION STORY “Sunday Morning” is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
DIOR X RIHANNA
Rihanna creates new Star Trek inspired sunglasses with Christian Dior.
TWELV MAGAZINE PARTY "BLONDE SASHIMI @HAPPY ENDING "
Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook
MARC JACOBS S/S2016 EYEWEAR COLLECTION
Eyewear is a stroke of color that accents an outfit. It’s also one of the few accessories where irregular shapes and designs and quirkiness thrive.
FASHION STORY "TUZA"
FASHION STORY “TUZA” is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
Citizens of Humanity's Fabric Brand Director, HIRO IKUTA
What sparks would be created between Japanese heritage and California sunshine?
COS LAUNCHES SS16 ISSUE OF COS MAGAZINE
COS, a London based brand known for its reinvented classics and modern trends, has just published the SS16 issue of their bi-annual...
FASHION STORY "CARMEN & CARMEN"
FASHION STORY “CARMEN & CARMEN” is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
MAVI FEATHER COLLECTION S/S2016
Mavi, who designs a full collection of denim and casual fashion founded in Istanbul in 1991, just launched “The premium ...
YOHJI YAMAMOTO FASHION STORY "TOKYO YANKI"
YOHJI YAMAMOTO FASHION STORY "TOKYO YANKI" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
Yigal Azrouël NYFW F/W2016 Ready-to-Wear
Yigal Azrouël NYFW F/W 2016 Ready-to-Wear
Jill Stuart NYFW F/W2016 Ready-To-Wear
Jill Stuart F/W 2016 Ready-To-Wear
TWELV NYFW F/W 2016 PARTY @ APARTMENT 7
Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV FACEBOOK below.
Christian Siriano NYFW F/W2016 Ready-to-Wear /Backstage
Christian Siriano F/W 2016 Ready to Wear
KAREN WALKER FASHION STORY "BEHIND BLUE EYE"
KAREN WALKER FASHION STORY "BEHIND BLUE EYE" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
Downtown Culture Club Fashion Season Opening Party
Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook
Louis Vuitton “SERIES 4”: The New Norm
Louis Vuitton “SERIES 4” The New Norm
DOMINIC LOUIS FASHION STORY "HEY HO LET'S GO"
DOMINIC LOUIS Fashion Story "HEY HO LET'S GO" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
CITIZENS OF HUMANITY FASHION STORY "ALMOST FAMOUS"
CITIZENS of HUMANITY Fashion Story "ALMOST FAMOUS" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
Apple and Hermès Unveil the Apple Watch Hermès Collection
September 9, 2015 — Apple and Hermès are creating a unique style for apple watch. Hermès has designed an amazing leather bands in distinctive styles.
BERENIK FASHION STORY "FALLING UP"
BERENIK Fashion Story "FALLING UP" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
Back Stage #8: Top Gun
"Behind the scenes of TWELV Magazine's inspired creations"
TWELV MAGAZINE PARTY @ TIKI TABU / SIXTY LES
Right in the middle of the an indecisive November, TWELV Magazine invited the beautiful folks of New York City to celebrate Fall in its latest party at TIKI TABU...
KAT GRAHAM EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW / FASHION STORY "KAT GRAHAM 1991"
Kat Graham Exclusive Interview / Fashion Story "KAT GRAHAM 1991" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
Gian Kamal Fashion Story "In The Woods"
Exclusive Gian Kamal Fashion Story "In The Woods" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
TWELV NYFW S/S 2016 Party @ TIKI TABU / SIXTY LES
Nothing better than a fashion party that has an amazing music and rooftop drinks to relive the hassle of fashion week.
Jill Stuart NYFW S/S2016 Ready-To-Wear
The 70’s are back with Jill Stuart Spring/Summer 2016 collection with high-waists and bell-bottoms that are to die for. The designer has traveled back in time with a range of simple suits and...
Marc Jacobs NYFW S/S2016 Ready-To-Wear
“I have always found comfort in the familiar and the frequent return to the things that move me visually, emotionally and intellectually.”
TWELV / ARC TOKYO EXCLUSIVE PARTIES IN JAPAN
ARC is a social hub of entertainment, a club, and a bar in the heart of Tokyo's fashion district Omotesando.
Yigal Azrouël NYFW S/S2016 Ready-To-Wear
“It’s about going from step to step and showing that progression.”
MARC JACOBS HOSTS "GLOSS" BOOK EVENT BY Roger Padilha and Mauricio Padilha
Amongst the fun and chaos that comes with fashion week, Marc Jacobs did a fantastic job in adding to the excitement during his party last night celebrating ...
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI F/W2015 AD CAMPAIGN
When it comes to designing shoes, few designers are as artistic as Giuseppe Zanotti.
Bubblegum Pinky Rings by David Yurman
The Bubblegum Pinky Rings by David Yurman is a unique fine jewelry ring that has been designed by an elite crowd. A king wears his family signet ring on his pinky.
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO Fashion Story "NEVER TALK WITH STRANGERS"
Exclusive CHRISTIAN SIRIANO Fashion Story "NEVER TALK WITH STRANGERS" is now available.
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial