1.
LINDER NYFW F/W18 READY-TO-WEAR SHOW & INTERVIEW
February 16, 2018 9:00 AM
Fall-Winter 2018 marked an amiable separation of the Linder design duo, with Kirk Millar leading the men’s collection and Sam Linder taking control of womenswear. When asked what he thought of the result, Linder felt it was a pleasant success. “Kirk is being more fully Kirk, and I’m being more fully Sam,” he said backstage, following the conclusion of the women’s New York Fashion Week runway show.
The collection was shown at the St. Mark’s Church in the East Village, checking off an item from Sam Linder’s bucket list. “I’ve wanted to do a show here since we’ve been doing shows,” he said, and it was clear the venue was not only personal to Linder, but also very familiar. “I’ve been in New York for 25 years, and I’ve been hanging out around here the whole time. I’ve been to a wedding here. I know people that grew up across the street. I just felt like it had to happen.” The sanctuary boasts being the second-oldest church in Manhattan, and Linder’s show adds a small piece of history to it’s storied past.
Fit for a church, the show conjured something of a pagan ritual. Oversized draping hoods, anatomically stitched white knits, and high-cowl necks created an enchanting fantasy, as a cinematic soundtrack evoked the ambient sounds of a forest. One model partitioned the show into three sections, each time wearing the same black sleeveless dress with a high-cut round neck, grasping a crystal-hemisphere emblazoned clutch. As Sam Linder put it, she served as somewhat of a “sorceress who presided over the whole ceremony.” Separated by the elements, the first grouping consisted of a teal palette with watercolor-esque prints, followed by a selection of woody floral pieces and grey plaids, and the final looks created a darker semblance, with unmistakably fire-inspired prints and a standout, metallic gold coat, trimmed with over a foot of leather fringe from it’s hem.
Linder’s show notes named Artemis, the lunar virgin goddess, as the “animating spirit” of the collection, and recalls that when the hunter Actaeon met her gaze, he turned into a stag, only before being killed by his own hounds, and so it was only appropriate that leather handbags be suspended by chains from an archer’s bow. But while the Greek mythology served as the inspiration, it was not to shroud Linder’s motivation behind the collection. Beneath the magic and mystique, he designed the collection for the woman who does not heed the male gaze, saying “I just didn’t want to think about women’s clothes in terms of how somebody reacts to a woman. I wanted to think of them in terms of someone who was dressing for another reason– dressing for her own purposes, like what’s she’s going to be doing that day.” The show was mythologic in spirit, but Linder’s starting point for the collection was far from allegorical.
WRITTEN BY HOLLIS DE LANEY
PHOTO CREDIT: COURTESY OF LINDER
related posts
TWELV'S CHRISTMAS WISH LIST #2: Features Director: Stephen Fisher
FASHION STORY "Jena in Blumarine"
Jena from Wilhelmina in Blumarine's Fall 2013 collection.
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
TWELV'S CHRISTMAS WISH LIST #1: Fashion Editor Tina
1. Native Union Pop Retro Phone $125 - Throwback time - How chic would it be to sport this golden handset around town?
Ann Demeulemeester Leaving Her Brand
Ann Demeulemeester announced Wednesday that she has decided to leave her company.
Prada debuts Wes Anderson short film
Prada debuted the 8 minute short film titled "Castello Cavalcanti" in the usual Wes Anderson style with stone faced humor and short tactical dialog.
TWELV HOROSCOPE SS14 #4: LILAC
Pastel shades are typical of the spring, this season one particular pastel hue floating down many runways is lilac.
Public School: Success in a Nutshell
Being considerably new to the fashion world as individual designers, the founders of Public School has definitely gotten off to a smooth start.
TWELV HOROSCOPE SS14 #3: BLACK AND WHITE
Black and white proved to have staying power for the spring. Some variation of the timeless combination emerged in almost every collection for the season.
TWELV HOROSCOPE SS14 #2: METALLICS
Stunning metallic sheens adorned the spring and summer runway for the 2014 season.
TWELV HOROSCOPE SS14 #1: GRAPHIC SEE-THROUGHS
Welcome to TWELV Horoscopes Spring/Summer 2014, as we lead up to spring the TWELV Fashion team will work hard to scavenge the runways to put together the hottest trends for spring and summer 2014...
Nicolas Ghesquière Named Louis Vuitton’s New Creative Director
Nicolas Ghesquière was announced as Louis Vuitton’s new creative director on November 4.
LAUNCH OF ISSUE 4 "MUSE" WITH LAKE BELL
We are thrilled to announce the launch of our fourth issue "MUSE" with beautiful cover girl Lake Bell!
DIESEL for SUCCESSFUL LIVING
Diesel's new Successful Living collection for Fall 2013 was not only revolutionary in its interpretations of what you need for your chic home, but in its production.
LOVE ME MORE, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
At the corner where fashion meets fine art, there stands Jean Paul Gaultier, four decades of his glory and avant-garde haute couture all packaged into the beautiful Brooklyn Museum under the...
Art and Excess: Chanel S/S2014 Collection
Karl Lagerfeld’s SS 14 collection for Chanel was youthful and playful in its celebration of art and excess.
MARC JACOBS SAYS GOODBYE TO LOUIS VUITTON
Marc Jacobs “goodbye song” to Louis Vuitton was an extravagant experience meant to celebrate the “showgirl in all of us,” and boy did it.
Genius of Nature: Randomness and Pattern @ Aaron Faber Gallery
“Goldsmithing is the same act of creation as a plant growing or the universe expanding: it is organic, cosmic and perfectly natural,” describes exhibition curator Patricia Kiley Faber at Aaron...
DOLCE & GABBANA PAY TRIBUTE TO A GRECO-ROMAN DREAM
With so many designers changing up the color palette for Spring 2014, Dolce & Gabbana stuck to what they do best--creating beautiful awe-inspiring pieces, while showcasing romantic Greco-Roman...
The Meteorite Collection - David Yurman
TWELV was invited to join experimental jeweler, Evan Yurman, and visionary curator, Neville Wakefield, to celebrate the launch of David Yurman's new collection; THE METEORITE COLLECTION.
A New York Fashion Week Minute with Jonny Cota
Even during crunch time, Skingraft designer Jonny Cota happily opened up to TWELV about his first New York Fashion Week show.
Dior Homme's "Futuristic Elite"
Dior Homme opted for a short film titled “The Players” to showcase their Autumn/Winter 2013-2014 collection.
MEOW! THE GREAT GAULTIER AND OUR OTHER FALL2013 COUTURE FAVORITES
It’s that time again; New York Fashion Week is just around the corner.
Miley in Terry by Moscot
Renowned fashion photographer Terry Richardson has added his latest starlet to his repertoire of celebrities donning his glasses before the camera.
Marchesa Voyage Launch Party
Fashionistas from all walks of life assembled atop the Gramercy Park Hotel Thursday, August 15th, to celebrate the launch of Marchesa Voyage, the highly-anticipated diffusion line from designers...
FASHION STORY "BOYS KEEP SWINGING"
Fashion Story "BOYS KEEP SWINGING" is available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
Holidays by Dior and Dior Homme
Ready or not, summer is almost over, which means holiday shopping is looming. Dive in with decadent designs from Dior and Dior Homme, who recently released their Holiday 2013 gift collections.
New Faces of G-Star
A Russian-trained ballerina and a Euro-indie rock star may seem worlds apart, but they have both been chosen to launch G-Star Raw’s upcoming Autumn/Winter ’13 campaign.
SHOCK THE WORLD
G-SHOCK by Casio held its annual “Shock the World” event and celebrated its 30th anniversary Wednesday night at Basketball City on Pier 36.
BEAUTY IN CONTRAST, A DAVID YURMAN EVENT
A glamorous rooftop soiree with America’s hottest model, Kate Upton, happened last Tuesday, July 30th to debut the new campaign for David Yurman “Beauty in Contrast” collection.
FASHION STORY "LOVE ME HATE ME LOVE ME HATE ME"
Exclusive Fashion Story "LOVE ME, HATE ME, LOVE ME, HATE ME" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
KOTOBA: Fashion Sustainability Meets Punk-Prep Knitwear
Representing absolutely no garment excess waste, made exclusively in America, and controlled attitude, Kotoba’s FW’13 Form & Allusion collection is hard not to get excited about.
GUCCI SYNC
Social networking is a way of life, no way around it. Gucci has launched a new fun and young watch, SYNC. Social. Young. Network. Community.
GUESS HOLIDAY PREVIEW
Red inverted triangle; stand-alone question mark; black and white iconic images – the GUESS headquarters in New York embodies its trademark symbol to a T.
ALAIA X TWELV MAGAZINE
Editorial Video, "BALLERINAS FOR TWELV" is now avaialble!
Check inside for TWELV's Ballet Editorial Video
A Queen Within
This autumn we will all be bowing to the queen as she rises in a new exhibit which will be held at The World Chess Hall of Fame Museum in St. Louis.