It takes a certain kind of confidence for a designer to stage a collection in front of one of the most striking buildings in modern architecture, overlooking the magnificent cliffs and waterfront...
John Rocha F/W2014 READY-TO-WEAR
February 20, 2014 10:10 AM
“The arsonist was a friend of mine,” I heard a girl with a sideways ponytail and six-inch platform shoes say, in a soft Scandinavian accent, whilst waiting in the queue for the John Rocha show. I’m not exactly superstitious or easily swayed by other’s opinions, but I like to listen to the crowd before and after seeing a show. I find that sometimes people’s stories and reactions are far better at capturing the mood than written reviews, which can be the result of time deadlines or the burden of informing whilst also keeping an original voice.
It was raining as we were waiting outside, as it had done here in London for the last three days, and with those girl’s words in mind and my ticket in hand (printed black on thin off-white newspaper), I entered the show space at Somerset House.
My first impression, before it all even began, was that it was a well-organized show because of the swiftness with which the crowd moved from the outside in. Next thing you know the lights went off. Music starts. Lights on.
I was lucky enough to be sat at the far side of the U-shaped catwalk, with my back to the archway through which the models entered so that, before I saw the first outfit, I got a good few seconds to absorb the soundtrack: moody, progressive rock, think of a re-vamped Interpol; very ecstatic and slow-building, with a bit of saddness. I then saw the first look — a beautiful black dahlia, head wrapped in layers of organza and body dripping in a crochet dress with tear-shaped patent leather teardrop leaves hanging from it — and it all merged together: the music, the weather, the clothes and the words from before.
The layering of soft fabrics which build volume and shape is something John Rocha excels at, but how the technique was used in this collection (over the top and with no reservations on oversized head- and neckpieces) gave birth to an underlying conceptual theme: that of concealing the body by using fabrics which are normally used to reveal: raffia lace, silk georgettes, chiffons, organza. If the color palette was quite subdued (a lot of black, garnet, forest green), it made up for it in technical execution. The outfits that stood out had entwined soft and hard fabrics, reflective and matte, crochet with lace and patent leathers.
The show’s fact sheet talks of dusky Icelandic skies and Pierre Soulages as inspiration, but there were other things there which I couldn’t help crossing my mind whilst watching: The Red Queen in Lewis Carroll’s stories and even nudges to Lolita street fashions, although the latter might have just been the knee-length socks which served the subtle purpose of keeping the longer dresses looking young.
Unsurprisingly, the “bride” at the end was also wearing black and then the show was over and I was back out in the rain thinking of ways to sum it all up, and my mind jumped back to the Scandinavian girl from before and how I found her words darkly romantic, in a soft rock kind of way. And that was John Rocha’s woman: a soft rock Lolita, decorative and feminine, but strong.
WRITTEN BY: CASPER FITZHUE
related posts
3.1 PHILLIP LIM FASHION STORY "SUNDAY MORNING"
FASHION STORY “Sunday Morning” is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
DIOR X RIHANNA
Rihanna creates new Star Trek inspired sunglasses with Christian Dior.
TWELV MAGAZINE PARTY "BLONDE SASHIMI @HAPPY ENDING "
Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook
MARC JACOBS S/S2016 EYEWEAR COLLECTION
Eyewear is a stroke of color that accents an outfit. It’s also one of the few accessories where irregular shapes and designs and quirkiness thrive.
FASHION STORY "TUZA"
FASHION STORY “TUZA” is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
Citizens of Humanity's Fabric Brand Director, HIRO IKUTA
What sparks would be created between Japanese heritage and California sunshine?
COS LAUNCHES SS16 ISSUE OF COS MAGAZINE
COS, a London based brand known for its reinvented classics and modern trends, has just published the SS16 issue of their bi-annual...
FASHION STORY "CARMEN & CARMEN"
FASHION STORY “CARMEN & CARMEN” is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
MAVI FEATHER COLLECTION S/S2016
Mavi, who designs a full collection of denim and casual fashion founded in Istanbul in 1991, just launched “The premium ...
YOHJI YAMAMOTO FASHION STORY "TOKYO YANKI"
YOHJI YAMAMOTO FASHION STORY "TOKYO YANKI" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
Yigal Azrouël NYFW F/W2016 Ready-to-Wear
Yigal Azrouël NYFW F/W 2016 Ready-to-Wear
Jill Stuart NYFW F/W2016 Ready-To-Wear
Jill Stuart F/W 2016 Ready-To-Wear
TWELV NYFW F/W 2016 PARTY @ APARTMENT 7
Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV FACEBOOK below.
Christian Siriano NYFW F/W2016 Ready-to-Wear /Backstage
Christian Siriano F/W 2016 Ready to Wear
KAREN WALKER FASHION STORY "BEHIND BLUE EYE"
KAREN WALKER FASHION STORY "BEHIND BLUE EYE" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
Downtown Culture Club Fashion Season Opening Party
Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook
Louis Vuitton “SERIES 4”: The New Norm
Louis Vuitton “SERIES 4” The New Norm
DOMINIC LOUIS FASHION STORY "HEY HO LET'S GO"
DOMINIC LOUIS Fashion Story "HEY HO LET'S GO" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
CITIZENS OF HUMANITY FASHION STORY "ALMOST FAMOUS"
CITIZENS of HUMANITY Fashion Story "ALMOST FAMOUS" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
Apple and Hermès Unveil the Apple Watch Hermès Collection
September 9, 2015 — Apple and Hermès are creating a unique style for apple watch. Hermès has designed an amazing leather bands in distinctive styles.
BERENIK FASHION STORY "FALLING UP"
BERENIK Fashion Story "FALLING UP" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
Back Stage #8: Top Gun
"Behind the scenes of TWELV Magazine's inspired creations"
TWELV MAGAZINE PARTY @ TIKI TABU / SIXTY LES
Right in the middle of the an indecisive November, TWELV Magazine invited the beautiful folks of New York City to celebrate Fall in its latest party at TIKI TABU...
KAT GRAHAM EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW / FASHION STORY "KAT GRAHAM 1991"
Kat Graham Exclusive Interview / Fashion Story "KAT GRAHAM 1991" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
Gian Kamal Fashion Story "In The Woods"
Exclusive Gian Kamal Fashion Story "In The Woods" is now available!
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial
TWELV NYFW S/S 2016 Party @ TIKI TABU / SIXTY LES
Nothing better than a fashion party that has an amazing music and rooftop drinks to relive the hassle of fashion week.
Jill Stuart NYFW S/S2016 Ready-To-Wear
The 70’s are back with Jill Stuart Spring/Summer 2016 collection with high-waists and bell-bottoms that are to die for. The designer has traveled back in time with a range of simple suits and...
Marc Jacobs NYFW S/S2016 Ready-To-Wear
“I have always found comfort in the familiar and the frequent return to the things that move me visually, emotionally and intellectually.”
TWELV / ARC TOKYO EXCLUSIVE PARTIES IN JAPAN
ARC is a social hub of entertainment, a club, and a bar in the heart of Tokyo's fashion district Omotesando.
Yigal Azrouël NYFW S/S2016 Ready-To-Wear
“It’s about going from step to step and showing that progression.”
MARC JACOBS HOSTS "GLOSS" BOOK EVENT BY Roger Padilha and Mauricio Padilha
Amongst the fun and chaos that comes with fashion week, Marc Jacobs did a fantastic job in adding to the excitement during his party last night celebrating ...
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI F/W2015 AD CAMPAIGN
When it comes to designing shoes, few designers are as artistic as Giuseppe Zanotti.
Bubblegum Pinky Rings by David Yurman
The Bubblegum Pinky Rings by David Yurman is a unique fine jewelry ring that has been designed by an elite crowd. A king wears his family signet ring on his pinky.
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO Fashion Story "NEVER TALK WITH STRANGERS"
Exclusive CHRISTIAN SIRIANO Fashion Story "NEVER TALK WITH STRANGERS" is now available.
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial